Ep 20: Erin McNeice - Finding Sudden Success on the Senior Circuit

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Erin is a boulder and lead climber from team GB who has been having a stellar 2024 season so far, making finals for boulder in Keqiao, lead in Wujiang, and getting bronze in Shanghai OQS! In this episode, we’ll get some insight into how she seemed to rise out of nowhere, her brutal off-season training, we’ll learn a bit about team GB, and stay for the end to hear about where the Erin McBeast nickname came from.

Guest links:
Instagram (instagram.com/erinmcbeast)

Reference links:
Keqiao Boulder Finals Difficult Paddle (youtube.com/live/K9vcnOpBPDc?si=vQKtq5GFWLTwnP…)

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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro/Rest after Shanghai OQS
2:52 - Starting climbing + skateboarding
9;12 - Her dad’s gymnastics/climbing background
11:29 - Jumping without bending your knees
13:26 - Climbing preferences, strengths, weaknesses
15:53 - Traveling for climbing experience
17:36 - Team GB training process
21:48 - Finding incredible form this season
26:25 - Taking on a less serious mindset
34:06 - Training goal setting
35:41 - Difficulty maintaining friendships through training
39:45 - Competing against your idols
42:43 - GB Climbing Funding
44:59 - Need for sponsorship
46:33 - Handling the quick OQS -> Olympics turnaround time
49:28 - Future climbing goals
50:55 - Planetology interests
53:20 - Living in Malaysia
56:11 - Erin McBeast origin story
57:29 - ISO activities
59:28 - Discord Q: Did you ever had doubts in wanting to become a pro climber?
1:02:30 - Discord Q: Training at home vs abroad
1:03:59 - Discord Q: Do you do any other sports? Is cross-training beneficial?
1:06:03 - Where to find Erin