Ep 11: Staša Gejo - A look into isolation

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Stasa is a boulder and lead climber (specializing in boulder) from Serbia who has been competing in international cups since 2011 as a youth climber. Most recently, she took the silver medal in the Laval European Qualifiers. In this episode, we’ll learn about Serbian funding in the sport and OQS, we’ll get a glimpse into what bouldering isolation is like, hear some tales from the commentary booth, and hear her reflect on the 2023 season.
Guest links:
Instagram (instagram.com/campbell_harrison547)
Reference links:
Career highlight - EU Champs Munich 2017 Superfinal (youtube.com/watch?ab_channel=InternationalFede…)
Koper 2022 “Heel Hookers vs Toe Hookers” (youtube.com/live/dGdqIBviuiA?si=F1QJH8jAdmBSoL…)
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction
6:46 - Stasa's early climbing start
16:09 - Growing up in a climbing family
24:45 - How does bouldering isolation work?
33:00 - Trying to calculate your competition
35:25 - Physical and emotion state between quails, semis, and finals
39:55 - Finals mental game
42:15 - Routesetting + height (being a taller competitor)
49:31 - Interest in commentating
54:52 - Embarrassing commentating moments
57:54 - Funding the Serbian climbing team
1:04:07 - Climbing scene in Serbia, climbing resources
1:07:25 - Will comp climbing be less collaborative now that there's money involved
1:10:38 - 2023 season reflection
1:15:19 - Climbers being too starstruck to talk to each other
1:18:50 - Juggling masters degree with competitions
1:22:27 - Currently binge watching...
1:25:30 - Viola/Violin Talk
1:28:21 - How OQS works
1:31:48 - Preparing for OQS
1:35:44 - Discord Q: Do you get negative responses to your on stage emotions?
1:37:48 - Discord Q: Differences between how national teams train?
1:39:16 - Discord Q: What do you like about Munich?
1:43:16 - Discord comment: berating Janja for celebrating before clipping
1:45:06 - Discord Q: Current outdoor projects?
1:48:20 - Where to find Stasa + Outro