Ep 13: Carlie LeBreton - Paraclimbing World Champs Setting

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Carlie is the FIRST female chief setter at an IFSC world championship, where she led a team of 5 to set the world paraclimbing championships in Bern 2023! She has been climbing for over 20 years and setting for almost just as long, so she has a lot of experience. In this episode, we’ll learn about all the things you have to keep in mind when setting world championship routes for paraclimbers, what it’s like in the routesetting scene as a female setter, and what it’s like owning a climbing gym.

Guest links:
Carlie’s Instagram (instagram.com/carlieclimbs)
Reference links:
Bern 2023 RP1 route (youtube.com/live/RwQbZNGSUZA?si=U8qLqzt6xUpBKn…)
IFSC Para Routesetting Guidelines (cdn.ifsc-climbing.org/images/Paraclimbing/Reso…)

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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction
1:18 - Tummy trubble
4:10 - Starting climbing through school
9:04 - How she became a paraclimbing setter
11:09 - IFSC rules for paraclimbing setting
14:46 - How to handle asymmetrical disabilities?
16:32 - How to merge different paraclimbing classifications onto the same route
20:26 - How para routes are forerun
22:22 - Setting a route that did not work out as expected
25:25 - How setters can get into paraclimbing setting
26:42 - Breaking into routesetting as a woman 20 years ago
31:48 - Differences setting for mens vs women climbing
36:08 - Carlie's setting style
37:37 - How motherhood impacted climbing + setting
43:23 - Being a gym owner
49:09 - My dream gym
50:34 - Discord Q: Did you feel unconscious bias against you as a female setter?
52:54 - Discord Q: Do setters get "writer's block"?
54:41 - Discord Q: How often do you think gym routes/boulders should be reset?
56:43 - Discord Q: Do you have any involvement in World Cup isolation setting?
59:00 - Discord Q: Pros and cons of setting different qualifiers and finals in 1 day
1:02:25 - Where to find Carlie