Ep 39: Shauna Coxsey - The TRUTH About Motherhood and Pro Climbing

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So you all probably know who she is, but just in case you don’t, Shauna is a British climber, 2-time bouldering world cup season winner, Olympian, mom, and nowadays she’s still ticking off hard climbs outdoors. In this episode, we’ll learn about how not excited she was to compete in the Olympics, why she has an issue with the word “retirement,” and of course, the difficulty of managing climbing during and after pregnancy both socially and physically.

Guest links:
Shauna’s Instagram (instagram.com/shaunacoxsey)

Reference links:
Foxy Holds (forgedequipmentltd.com/pages/foxy-holds)
Women’s Climbing Symposium (womensclimbingsymposium.com)

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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:36 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2;23 - Running climbing clinics
6:18 - Being the "calm" comp climber
9:16 - The nightmarish path to Tokyo Olympics
14:39 - How she started climbing + competing
17:59 - Team GB then vs now
19:52 - The evolving comp and social media game
28:54 - IFSC Athlete's Commission Goals
34:38 - DISCORD Q: Are we actually moving the needle with RED-S testing
37:39 - Personal eating disorder experience
43:35 - The issue with the word "retirement"
48:37 - DISCORD Q: How do you mentally deal with training that used to work well but now doesn't?
50:58 - The TRUTH about "having fun"
53:28 - Best comp memories
58:42 - Managing climbing while pregnant
1:07:32 - DISCORD Q: What was the most helpful postpartum training exercise?
1:12:05 - Thoughts on pulling a Jain Kim?
1:20:44 - Current goals: Outdoors and more kids??
1:25:16 - DISCORD Q: Thoughts on climbing sponsorships and Adidas sponsorship ending
1:31:36 - DISCORD Q: Do you still try to prioritize being well-rounded now that you're no longer a comp climber?
1:34:25 - DISCORD Q: Your most controversial climbing opinion?
1:37:07 - Words of wisdom + where to find Shauna