Ep 40: Erik Noya - How Politics KILLED Venezuela Climbing

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Erik is an accomplished speed climber from Spain! In this episode, we’ll learn about how politics destroyed climbing in Venezuela, what it was like starting over with life and training in Spain, injuries in speed climbing, and we’ll get his thoughts on other speed climbing formats like relays and yearly route changes. Hear from speed climbing’s most positive athlete!

Guest links:
Erik’s Instagram (instagram.com/erik.noya)

Reference links:
Climb Gurus (climbgurus.com) - Clothing Brand!
Old Venezuelan IFSC Profile (ifsc-climbing.org/athlete/7431/erik-noya)

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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:11 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
1:59 - Training at a special facility
4:12 - How he started climbing and competing
11:00 - IFSC athlete page mixup
14:46 - Moving from Venezuela to Spain
16:07 - Why he moved away from Venezuela
24:06 - Venezuela's PREVIOUS climbing dominance
31:07 - Starting over in Spain
36:54 - The differences in speed training
40:10 - Bad speed climbing habits to break
46:40 - Reflecting on OQS and not making the Olympics
54:37 - Climbing goals for 2025 season
57:26 - Being an older climber
59:37 - Knowing when to give up
1:02:27 - Speed climbing injuries?!
1:07:32 - Life outside of speed climbing
1:13:54 - Discord Q: What is your opinion on the latest changes in FEDME particularly the firing of David Macia from the Olympics selection for 2028?
1:19:57 - Discord Q: Thoughts on relays, changing the route yearly, etc?
1:22:09 - IG Q: Why did you run the Chinese top the nobody else was?
1:25:30 - IG Q: Advice for people starting out speed climbing?
1:26:23 - IG Q: How was training in Indonesia?
1:29:52 - Words of wisdom + where to find Erik