Ty Hardaway - The World's HIGHEST MILEAGE Belayer

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Ty has done it all: He’s been competition belaying, judging, and coaching for over 10 years, and he started the belay programs at USA climbing and the IFSC. In this episode, we’ll learn about all things belaying, get behind the scenes insight, and hear about how the scene has changed since the Olympics came into play, leading to some toxic parents.

Guest links:
Ty’s Instagram (instagram.com/_tyhardaway_)

Reference links:
Noah Makaiwi Interview (youtube.com/watch?v=1ekoFWEkXow&ab_channel…)
Reel Rock Speed Mishap @10:25 (redbull.com/us-en/episodes/up-to-speed-reel-ro…)

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! madrock.com

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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:20 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:08 - Coaching and belaying at USA youth nationals
7:36 - Getting into volunteer judging/belaying
11:35 - Good belaying vs bad belaying
15:40 - You need to train your neck!!
18:03 - Dangerous belay practices
23:49 - The pressure of belaying at world cups
29:29 - Athletes with specific belay requests
31:54 - Athletes who are hard to belay for
34:32 - Routesetting that makes belaying hard
37:28 - Being a speed starter
43:57 - Birmingham world games 2022
47:41 - HOT TAKE: Women are better belayers than men?!
51:25 - Paraclimbing belaying
54:28 - Manual speed climbing belaying?!
57:02 - Extra considerations for para belaying
59:37 - Changes in the sport - Olympics desperation
1:04:40 - The toxic youth scene
1:09:31 - Discord Q: Do belayers get a rundown of the route from setters?
1:10:24 - DISCORD Q: Have you ever seen an athlete or coach object to a belayer?
1:11:15 - DISCORD Q: Process for removing belayers mid comp?
1:13:28 - Ice climbing belaying?!?
1:16:03 - Where to find Ty