Ep 4: Grace Crowley - Pro Speed Climbing as a Non-Binary Athlete

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Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Grace is a speed climber on the Australian team who only started climbing in late 2015 and has been competing in world cups since 2019 at the age of 15 (only 4 years of climbing before becoming world level?!?!). Grace is also open about sharing their experience being a non-binary athlete within competitive sports.
Guest links:instagram.com/gracecrowlye
Reference links:Classic Speed Climbing: Video (youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=PS_XpiZryqM)
Adidas Rockstars: YT Channel (youtube.com/@adidasROCKSTARS/videos)
Arco Rock Master: 2023 Duel (youtube.com/watch?v=_HssMZoYMGU)
Psicobloc: Website (psicoblocopenseries.com)
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction
1:17 - Covid?!?!
3:24 - Climbing for Australia as an American
5:35 - How Grace got into climbing and competing
8:18 - Making the national team after only 4 years of climbing
12:01 - Competing in boulder vs speed
14:51 - Deciding to focus on speed
16:29 - What makes a good speed athlete?
17:20 - Bad habits that need to be broken
19:49 - How to train for speed
23:30 - Can you train without a speed wall?
27:42 - Does team Australia train together?
29:21 - 2021 Visa Nightmare
32:53 - Competing as a non-binary athlete
34:50 - Would you prefer a separate, non-gendered category?
36:52 - Do you feel accepted within the climbing community?
38:54 - Reflecting on the 2023 season
41:06 - Readiness for November competition
43:54 - How The Olympics will impact 2024 World Cups
47:37 - Upcoming goals?
48:53 - Discord Q: Has it been hard finding coaches/walls?
51:18 - Discord Q: Interest in speed bouldering?
54:40 - Discord Q: Speed climbing outdoors?
56:33 - Discord Q: Future of speed climbing + formats?
1:02:46 - Outro