Ep 6: Allegra Maguire - The Psychology Behind Climbing Competitions

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Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Allegra is a Youtuber, mental climbing coach, and co-founder of ClimbInFlow, which provides services for climbing mind training. She has experience coaching all types of climbers, from beginners to world cup youth athletes. She recently came home from coaching at the youth world champs in Korea, where she helped Geila Macia Martin podium in boulder and lead! Allegra has also competed a bit herself, competing in Swedish Lead Championships after only 2 years of climbing.
Guest links:
Instagram (instagram.com/allegra_maguire)
Youtube (youtube.com/@AllegraMaguireClimbingPsych)
Psych Coaching (climbinflow.com)
Reference links:
Stefano Ghisolfi Self Compassion Video (youtube.com/watch?ab_channel=AllegraMaguireCli…)
Geila Macia Martin Youth World Champs Lead Finals (youtube.com/watch?ab_channel=InternationalFede…)
Geila Macia Matin Youth World Champs Boulder Finals (youtube.com/watch?ab_channel=InternationalFede…)
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction
5:20 - Which climbing federations have climbing psychologists?
7:54 - How climbing mixes with psychology
13:26 - Learning self compassion from Stefano Ghisolfi
17:21 - Anyone else relate to getting motivation from lack of self compassion?
21:21 - Coaching at youth world champs
27:00 - Sunk cost fallacy in climbing
31:03 - Opportunity cost neglect in competition climbing
39:52 - Psychological differences between youth and adult climbers
41:57 - How to get over fear of falling
47:49 - Fear of injuries
53:13 - Is it worth it to overcome fear?
59:01 - Is mental coaching even important?
1:04:17 - Climbing in the Swedish Lead Championships
1:07:13 - Women in competition
1:12:09 - Gender gap in climbing
1:18:07 - No such thing as fair in competition
1:24:29 - Where to find Allegra