Coach Joy Black: Groundbreaking Study on Climbing While Pregnant, Busy Climber Tips, and My Pelvic Floor

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Climbing Coach Joy Black joins to discuss:

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How to make a 30-min session count

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Removing friction to start workouts faster

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Being strong doesn’t mean being good

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Her groundbreaking study on climbing while pregnant

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How dangerous is falling while pregnant?

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Helpful signs to know when to end a session

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Postpartum training and climbing

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I HAVE A PELVIC FLOOR (and so do you)

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Listener Q&A

Follow joy on IG, @climbingwithjoy, and email her for a copy of the study: joy@trainedbyjoy.com
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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Why This Paper Matters

00:48 Meet Joy Black

05:01 Small Talk and Cold Plunges

08:07 Parenting and Training Consistency

13:08 Beating Perfectionism

16:56 Joy’s Current Struggle

21:12 Coaching Pregnant Climbers

24:52 Sponsor Break

27:45 Replacing Opinion With Data

33:14 Study Methods and Fall Risk

36:24 Risk Rates In Context

37:29 Talking With Providers

40:01 Bouldering Falls Breakdown

41:38 How Climbers Self Modify

44:03 Misconceptions About Falling

45:50 Miscarriage And Birth Outcomes

46:48 Natural Taper And Guardrails

50:45 Pregnancy Not Performance Season

54:12 Intentional Climber Ad Break

56:04 Mental Health Benefits

58:18 Relaxin And Finger Training

01:03:21 Defining Postpartum Timeline

01:06:13 Breastfeeding Vs Recovery

01:08:11 Pelvic Floor Explained

01:12:55 Postpartum Pelvic Floor Rehab

01:16:04 Pelvic Floor Progression

01:17:04 Coaching Lessons for All

01:19:41 Consistency and Intentional Training

01:20:55 Finger Training Focus

01:22:31 Overcoming Iso Repeaters Setup

01:25:52 Overhead vs Ground Repeaters

01:28:32 Stacking Sessions and Block Pulls

01:30:22 Rapid Fire Listener Q&A

01:30:36 Kids at the Gym Tips

01:32:53 Caffeine During Pregnancy

01:34:05 Two Years Postpartum Rebuild

01:37:41 Where to Find Joy

01:39:06 Wrap Up and Next Pro Clinic

01:41:11 Host Updates and Upcoming Events

01:47:48 Final Thanks and Sign Off

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Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

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Follow along onInstagram (instagram.com/thestruggleclimbingshow) andYouTube (youtube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow): @thestruggleclimbingshow

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!