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The Rise & Retreat of Jaeger‑LeCoultre – Can Going Independent Save the Brand? – Episode 70
Jaeger-LeCoultre was once the top-selling watch brand in the Richemont Group, a top-10 brand globally, and a GPHG darling under the legendary Gunter Blumlein. Today, it's slipped to number 16 in the industry and lost much of its cultural re
Tariffs Overturned: Relief or False Hope? – Plus Rolex & AP Grow on Scarcity – Episode 69
Update: As of February 21, 2026, the Trump administration now says they will set the new "Global Tariff" rate at 15% (not 10%), maintaining the same effective rate on Switzerland, at least for 150 days. On this episode, we unpack breaking n
Some Brands Break Away. Others Break Down – Watch Brand Spin-offs Gone Right and Wrong – Episode 68
In this episode, we dive into the growing wave of consolidation—and potential deconsolidation—sweeping through the watch industry, from confirmed brand sales to mounting rumors around major maisons. Rather than speculate, we focus on what a
V-shaped Recovery? – The Watch Industry Shows Early Signs of a Turn-around – Episode 67
On this episode, we zoom out to the state of the watch business, using Watches of Switzerland as a real-time bellwether. We unpack strong holiday performance alongside shrinking margins, then dig into accelerating U.S. retail consolidation:
Watch Groups Are Slimming Down – Brand Exits, Consolidation and a Return to Focus
On this episode, we zoom out and examine a broader shift underway in the watch industry as major groups begin to prioritize focus over expansion. Using the sale of Baume & Mercier as a starting point, we break down why brand exits and portf
Pre-owned Prices Rise. Sort of. – Plus, Patek Philippe Lowers Prices – Episode 65
On this episode, we dig into reports that Patek Philippe may roll back U.S. retail prices—by as much as 8%—after last year’s sharp tariff- and currency-driven increases. We break down why the math isn’t as simple as tariffs going down and p
How Global Wealth Drives The Watch Industry – Millionaires Surge, Yet The Industry Slumps – Episode 64
On this episode, we dig into how global wealth trends—rather than hype cycles or short-term market noise—are reshaping the luxury watch industry. Drawing on reporting originally published by ScrewDownCrown (Substack), we use the UBS Global
Yes, More Price Increases – Rolex, AP, Tudor, and Why the US Is Getting Hit Harder Than Europe – Episode 63
We kick off the first Openwork episode of 2026 by breaking down the latest watch price increases from Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Tudor, with a sharp focus on why U.S. buyers are seeing significantly higher jumps than Europe and the UK. We
The Dive Watches of Ming – The Watches of Podcast – Episode 62
On this episode, we share something a little different by sharing an installment from The Watches of Podcast, a new series where we step away from industry-wide analysis and focus deeply on individual brands—their history, philosophy, peopl
2026 Watch Industry Predictions – A Year of Recovery, Though Scars Remain – Episode 61
On this episode, we step back to assess where the watch industry actually landed in 2025, revisiting our prior predictions with a focus on the bigger forces at work rather than scorekeeping. We talk candidly about the pressure points that d
The Watch Industry Ends the Year Down – As Pressures Compound, Swiss Exports Drop – Episode 60
On this episode of Openwork, we dig into the long-awaited reduction of U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches, which finally dropped from 39% to 15% after weeks of confusion and delay. We explain what actually changed, why the rollout took more than
Ditching the Luxury Script for Independent Watches – Geoff Souder (Collective) – Episode 59
In this episode of Openwork, we talk with our sales director, Geoff Souder, about what fundamentally changes when you move from selling traditional luxury watches to selling independent brands. Drawing on decades of experience with mainstre
Signs of Hope for an Industry Under Pressure – Tariffs, Supplier Woes, the Rise of India and New Releases – Episode 58
Openwork is going weekly. In addition to our classic shows which focus on a specific topic or guest, we’re introducing a new format: a discussion of current events in the watch industry. So this week, we take a look at some tariff news (or
Embracing Risk & Managing Hype – Sylvain Berneron (Berneron) – Episode 57
Today we’re talking about the rise of independent hype watches. Until very recently, as we’ve discussed on this podcast, independent watchmaking was something of a backwater of the watch industry or at best the realm of the cognoscenti. But
2025 GPHG Dispatch – We're in Geneva for this Year's "Oscar's of Watchmaking" – Episode 56
This week we’re coming to you from Geneva, where we’ve attended the GPHG award ceremony, celebrated Czapek’s 10th anniversary, and had some time to experience the city’s horological treasures. We share a recap of our time in Geneva, includi
Watchmaker, Writer, and Brand Executive – Rob Nudds (The RealTime Show, Arcanaut) – Episode 55
Today we’re talking to someone who has made the transition from watchmaker to journalist to watch brand executive. In fact, it’s not so much a transition but a career expansion as he still assembles watches while creating copious content an
The Rise & Retreat of Omega – From Industry Leader to Challenger Brand – Episode 54
It’s the Omega-sode. We’re taking a look at the business of Omega: How they went from the world’s number one watch brand – both in terms of sales and units shipped – to number three, what happened along the way, and where they may be headed
Inside New York Watch Week – Nicholas Bowman-Scargill (Fears) – Episode 53
We're live at WatchTime New York 2025 with Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, 4th Managing Director of Fears. We discuss the growth of WindUp, WatchTime and the many other watch happenings in New York this past week, including what the brands are ta
How the 'Big Four' Took Over – 2018-2024 Watch Market Shifts – Episode 52
We’re taking a look at how the watch market has shifted in the past half decade plus. In particular, we’re taking a look at what’s changed since Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult published their first annual watch industry report in 2018 – whi
What's Going on at Bremont? – Inside the British Brand's 2024 Earnings – Episode 51
On September 5, 2025 under British law and as originally reported in WatchPro, Bremont filed their 2024 financial year report, which saw the brand post a whopping £9 million (GBP) loss. In addition to the numbers, the report reveals a great
Our Favorite Watches – Geneva Watch Days 2025 – Episode 50
Before we leave Geneva, we’re back with a recap of our favorite watches – all of them unexpected and expressions of unique points of view. Full show notes below with photos, more information and links: https://collectivehorology.com/blogs/a
Geneva Watch Days 2025 – Facing Global Challenges, the Watch Industry Turns to Creativity – Episode 49
We're live from Switzerland with our take on Geneva Watch Days 2025. We discuss what we're hearing in the meeting rooms, our takeaways from this week's releases, as well as how the show and industry more broadly are adapting to a turbulent
The Watch Industry’s Busiest Summer – Geneva Watch Days Preview, Swiss Exports, Plus Richemont Earnings – Episode 48
Summertime, usually a downtime in the watch industry, has been particularly busy this year. On this episode of Openwork, we're looking at three timely stories: A preview of Geneva Watch Days, the latest Swiss watch export data, and Richemon
The Industry's Most Important Watches – From the Quartz Crisis to Today – Episode 47
On this episode of Openwork, we explore the watches that shaped both the watch industry and global culture. Our focus is on the modern era—from the Quartz Crisis to today. Each of us selects three watches that transformed the industry, infl
39% Swiss Tariffs – Implications for the Watch Industry, Plus What Happens Next – Episode 46
On July 31, the United States announced a new reciprocal tariff rate of 39% on imports from Switzerland, starting August 7, 2025. These tariffs have sweeping implications for the Swiss watch industry and the global watch industry more broad
Cars vs. Watches – Wesley Smith (STANDARD H) – Episode 45
Today, it’s cars vs. watches. In particular, we’re looking at the automotive world, which is often compared to the watch industry—including on this podcast—to see what it might teach us about watches. Our guest is Wesley Smith, the founder
Certified Pre-owned: Fad or Fixture? – Hamza Masood (WatchCharts) – Episode 44
Today we’re talking about the rise of certified pre-owned programs – the current state of the CPO universe, the value of those programs, and where it’s all going. And to do that, we have the perfect returning guest, Hamza Masood of WatchCha
Watch Market Update – State of the Industry Mid-year 2025 – Episode 43
We’re half way through 2025, which has turned out to be a very eventful year to say the least, and that very much shows up in the data for the watch market. So today we’re looking at all the data sources we can muster to understand just how
What Enthusiasts Have Wrong – Dispelling the Watch Industry's Top Myths – Episode 42
Having made the transition from watch enthusiasts to industry insiders and retailers in particular, we’ve come to realize that there are often big gaps between what commands attention in watch media and among collectors vs. the commercial r
Reviving the U.S. Watch Industry – Josh Shapiro (J.N. Shapiro) – Episode 41
We discuss watchmaking in America – specifically what’s required to bring watchmaking at scale back to the United States. It’s a hot topic these days, particularly as U.S. tariffs, which have been dominating the news, are intended at least
