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Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry

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  1. Editorial Integrity in Watch Media – Victoria Gomelsky (JCK, New York Times, Robb Report) – Episode 40

    Editorial integrity and independence in the watch world. It’s a hot topic, and one we’ve explored before. But that was before today’s guest penned her open letter to the watch industry published in Robb Report titled: "Watch Execs Need to L

  2. Double Whammy of Tariffs and Foreign Exchange Rates – And How the Watch Industry Is Responding – Episode 39

    We’re going inside the industry response to the double whammy of US tariffs and foreign exchange rates. We’re going to address common myths, offer a look behind the scenes at the industry response, and discuss the implications for watchmaki

  3. Watch Collectors Become More Discerning – Collective Voice Spring 2025 Listener Survey Results – Episode 38

    We delve into the results of the Spring 2025 Collective Voice Survey, our twice-yearly report on how collectors feel about all things watches. Our Spring 2025 survey offers a fresh look at what’s on the minds of watch enthusiasts—what excit

  4. Special Episode: The Unsung Watches of Watches and Wonders 2025 – Episode 37

    After a busy week in Geneva, we recap the most interesting watches we saw that aren't otherwise getting much attention. Visit the Collective blog for show notes with live photos and links: collectivehorology.com/blog. Hosted by Asher Rapkin

  5. Watches and Wonders 2025 – The Watch Industry Adapts to a New Normal – Episode 36

    Recorded at Watches and Wonders 2025, we look at the current state of the show, some of the most interesting releases from a business standpoint, and even a few personal highlights. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Col

  6. The Rise of Independent Watchmaking – Tim Jackson (Independent in Time) – Episode 35

    These days, it seems like independent watchmakers and brands are everywhere – celebrated in watch media, on display at major retailers worldwide, hotly discussed in collector circles, and of course gaining share in an otherwise entrenched i

  7. The Unspoken Realities of Swiss Production – Praneeth Rajsingh (CEO, MING Watches) – Episode 34

    We’re joined by Praneeth Rajsingh, CEO of Horologer MING, to discuss the realities of watchmaking in Switzerland. While most watch brands are incredibly secretive about production, MING is remarkably transparent. So we invited Praneeth to d

  8. Inside the Shadowy Auction Industry – Marion Maneker (Puck News) – Episode 33

    Auction houses – they loom large in the world of watch collecting. Their lots, eye-popping results and personalities are followed feverishly by watch media and enthusiasts. But how much do we really know about these seemingly august, vaunte

  9. Rolex Shutters Carl F. Bucherer Brand – A Sign of Industry Consolidation? – Episode 32

    On February 7, 2025, Swiss media outlet Bilanz reported that Rolex is shutting down the Carl F. Bucherer watch brand, which it acquired in 2023 as part of its purchase of Bucherer – the global watch retailer. The decision to shutter any wat

  10. The Business & Ethics of Homage Watches – Marc Frankel (Long Island Watch) – Episode 31

    Homages, replicas and clones, oh my! Today we’re digging into the business and ethics of what’s a perennial and now growing segment of the watch market. This is a complex topic, with important distinctions to be drawn between homages and re

  11. Has Luxury Pricing Gone Too Far? – Katharine K. Zarrella (Fashion Writer, Editor & Critic) – Episode 30

    On this episode of the Openwork podcast, we look at luxury pricing. Of course, we’ve already done a deep dive on how watches are priced. (Check out our episode with Mike Margolis of Czapek and Singer Reimagined for that.) However, in the pa

  12. 2025 Watch Industry Preview – A Comeback Year for Watches? – Episode 29

    It's that time of year: Predictions. On this episode we look at the year ahead, and make three calls each about the future of the watch industry. We discuss brand and retailer consolidation, market performance, business models for watch med

  13. Market Wrap: The Watch Industry in 2024 – Hamza Masood (WatchCharts) – Episode 28

    On this episode we look back on the business of watches in 2024. In particular, we discuss where the watch market is as we close out the year. Is it growing, stalling, or as some would claim in retreat? To help us break it all down, we’re j

  14. How Watch Design Works – Marco Borraccino (Singer Reimagined) – Episode 27

    Today we’re going behind the scenes of watch design with Marco Borraccino the co-founder, CEO and Creative Director of Singer Reimagined. In addition to starting one of the most design-driven watch brands, Marco was previously the Head of D

  15. Behind the Zenith DEFY Skyline C.X (Special Episode) – Romain Marietta (Zenith) – Episode 26

    Today we have a bonus episode of our podcast. It’s a discussion with Romain Marietta, the Chief Product Officer at Zenith. We sat down recently in Geneva to discuss not only our latest collaboration – the Zenith DEFY Skyline C.X (https://co

  16. Inside M.A.D.Editions – Maximilian Büsser (MB&F) – Episode 25

    On this episode of Openwork, we explore the business of both MB&F (http://mbandf.com) and Max’s most recent horological project: M.A.D.Editions (https://www.madgallery.net/geneva/en/creators/mad-editions). While both represent wildly creati

  17. Inside the GPHG – How the "Oscars of Watchmaking" Really Works – Episode 24

    For years, we’ve followed the GPHG – the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève – with great excitement and interest as it’s essentially the Oscars of Watches. And with this year's award ceremony taking place November 13, we figured it would be

  18. New York Watch Week? – Plus Building URWERK and Brew with Martin Frei and Jonathan Ferrer – Episode 23

    On this episode, we share an industry perspective on what’s quickly becoming something of a New York Watch Week – comprising the Windup Watch Fair, WatchTime and more. Additionally, we’re going to share a special live podcast recording from

  19. Watch Production in China – Wesley Kwok (Nodus) – Episode 22

    On this episode, we take a look at a topic that we’ve been curious about for a long time. We have discussed, both with members of the industry and amongst ourselves, the realities of production here in the United States, Japan, Switzerland

  20. Watches of Switzerland Acquires Hodinkee (Special Episode) – Episode 21

    Today (October 4, 2024) marks a major shift in the watch industry. Hodinkee, the leading voice in modern watch media, has been fully acquired by Watches of Switzerland, a massive UK based retailer with operations around the world including

  21. How to Value Watch Movements – Inside the Movement Industry – Episode 20

    We discuss the current landscape of movement suppliers and how it came to be. We cover how movements are selected by watchmakers, along with the drama that often surrounds the ever-popular “in house” vs “mass produced” discussion. We offer

  22. Listener Survey Results – What You Told Us about the Current State and Future of the Watch Industry – Episode 19

    Earlier this summer, we asked you – our listeners – to participate in a short survey in order to hear your perspective on the current state and future of the watch industry. The responses poured in, and on today's episode, we delve into wha

  23. Geneva Watch Days: Stakes Are High – How the Event and Watch Industry Are Evolving – Episode 18

    Live from Geneva Watch Days, we discuss how the show has evolved from a collector focus to a major industry event, along with the consequences of those changes. And we cover some of the week's high drama, including how and why we were kicke

  24. No Bottom in Sight: State of the Pre-owned Watch Market – Hamza Masood (Watch Charts) – Episode 17

    We take a deep dive into the current state of the secondary (pre-owned) watch market with our friend Hamza Masood of WatchCharts – the world's most comprehensive, transparent and trusted source of watch market data. It’s a service we at Col

  25. Epic Battle: Mono vs. Multi-brand Retail – Current State and Future of Watch Retail – Episode 16

    We look at the shifting landscape of watch retail – specifically the rise of single-brand boutiques, the trade-offs of those changes, and what the future looks like. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology

  26. Hodinkee Shutters Retail Business (Special Episode) – What It Means for Hodinkee and the Watch Industry – Episode 15

    On this special episode of Openwork, we discuss Hodinkee’s recent announcement that they’re shutting down their retail business – with the exception of limited editions – to refocus on editorial. This is big news that touched off an immedia

  27. Is the Watch Industry Dying? – Tony Traina (Hodinkee) – Episode 14

    Our conversation with Tony Traina of Hodinkee takes a look at the current health of and sentiment toward the watch industry. We look at how brands, retailers and watch media contribute to the current state of the industry, and what they can

  28. Navigating the Swiss Watch Industry as an Outsider – Aren Bazerkanian (Founder, Havid Nagan) – Episode 13

    This episode is a very frank and unfiltered conversation with Aren Bazerkanian, founder of Havid Nagan – the upstart independent brand that took the watch world by storm in 2022 with its debut watch the HN00. We recorded this conversation i

  29. How We Make Collaborative Watches – Behind the New Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Night Ops Edition – Episode 12

    Probably the question we’re asked most is how we design and develop our collaborative watches – how we identify brands, how the creative process works, and how we make decisions along the way on everything from design to finishing. So on th

  30. From Enthusiasts to Insiders – Lessons from Going Inside the Watch Industry – Episode 11

    We share our biggest lessons from going inside the watch industry. We both made the transition from watch enthusiasts to industry insiders. We’ve had the opportunity to retail watches, design them, meet many industry luminaries, and even se

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