Emil Abrahamsson: Sending his Hardest Route, Training Breakthroughs, and Being Told He'd Have to Quit Climbing

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Elite climber, Emil Abrahamsson, is back on the show to discuss:

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His journey to sending 9a (5.14d)

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Managing a string of mystery injuries

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Being told he needed to quit climbing forever

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The route Adam Ondra recommended to him

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His off-the-wall training to build endurance

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Why pull-ups are pointless

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Finger training he did to get better at sport climbing

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YouTube projects (and struggles)

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His secret reality tv project

Check out Emil's YT channel: youtube.com/@EmilAbrahamsson

Join the Fantasy Climbing League: fantasyclimbingleague.com
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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/physivantagepodcast) the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

• Arc’teryx (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/arcteryxpodcast): Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/arcteryxpodcast)

• Intentional Climber (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalpodcast): Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalgp) or the App Store (intentionalclimber.com/intentionalapp) and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals atthestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp:/…

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Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Shoulder Scare Cold Open

00:23 Welcome Back Emil Returns

03:14 Swedish Place Names Banter

03:56 Dad Portrait No Eyebrows

05:35 First 9A Goal Talk

09:50 Injury Streak And Misdiagnosis

13:30 Why We Climb Soul Searching

17:36 Rehab Trench No Pullups

19:35 Straight Arm Board Lessons

29:14 Arco Project Picked With Ondra

31:37 First Sessions Reality Check

34:13 Off Route Endurance Training

39:23 Resting Skills Kneebars Mastery

41:58 Sport Skills Boost Bouldering

43:25 Training Timeline and Shoulder

44:17 Pullups Versus Climbing Skill

46:37 Cardio Base for Climbers

48:15 App Break Intentional Climber

50:17 Finger Training and Hangboard

52:58 Personal Strengths and Superpowers

54:47 Fear of Falling Mindset

57:57 Next Goals and Injury Risk

01:03:59 YouTube Workload and Big Island

01:10:08 Research Projects and Physical 100

01:12:39 Fantasy Climbing League Explained

01:17:43 Wrap Up and Host Training Update

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/podcastinstagram) and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/podcastyoutube)

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership withThe Honnold Foundation (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/honnoldfoundationp…), whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of thePlug Tone Audio Collective, (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/plugtonepodcast) a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!