Adam Ondra: Stronger than Ever at 33, New Training Tools, Weird Grip Tricks, and Boulders vs Routes

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Support the Show on Patreon

Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.

patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/patreonpodcast)

-

Elite climber Adam Ondra explores:

• Flashing multiple V15 (8C) boulders

• How he’s stronger than ever at 33

• The new training tools he’s using

• The truth about his "secret" crimp grips

• Going for V17 (and perhaps V18?)

• His weird low-intensity warmup for V15 flash attempts

• Training solo vs with a crew

• Is anyone today capable of 9c+ 5.16a

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/physivantagepodcast) the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

• Arc’teryx (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/arcteryxpodcast): Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/arcteryxpodcast)

• Intentional Climber (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalpodcast): Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalgp) or the App Store (intentionalclimber.com/intentionalapp) and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals atthestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp:/…

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 App Announcement

01:15 Welcome Adam Ondra

03:46 Life in Arco Italy

05:39 Smith Rock Stories

06:57 Retiring From Comps

08:49 Flash Mindset Explained

12:20 Training Tools and Crew

16:49 Board Climbing Breakdown

19:09 Sponsor Break Arc'teryx

20:52 Sponsor Break Sendurex

22:35 Strength Testing Habits

24:23 Grip Hacks and Thumb

32:09 Flash vs Project Potential

35:02 App Break Intentional

37:04 Mindset for Flash Attempts

38:47 Flash Warmup Routine

40:48 Using Beta Videos Wisely

43:37 Solo vs Crew Training

46:30 Regimen vs Flexibility

51:39 Sport Climbing Goals

53:49 Arco New Route Potential

55:41 Will 9C Get Repeated

59:20 What Makes 9C Plus

01:03:32 Staying Psyched Climbing

01:06:54 Bonus Episode Promo

01:09:45 Host Training Update

01:11:13 Intentional Climber App

01:14:29 Final Wrap Up

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/podcastinstagram) and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/podcastyoutube)

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership withThe Honnold Foundation (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/honnoldfoundationp…), whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of thePlug Tone Audio Collective, (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/plugtonepodcast) a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!