Noah Wheeler: Sending Burden, Finger Training (and Injury), the Next Proj, and the Dab Heard Round the World

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Support the Show on Patreon

Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.

patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/patreonpodcast)

-

Elite climber Noah Wheeler explores:

• Specific training for Burden

• The dab ascent and what happened after

• Is Burden really V17?

• The change that unlocked the send

• Board climbing vs hang boarding

• Mindset tools to lock in for a send

• What Daniel Woods taught him

• Half crimp vs full crimp

• The next V17 on his list

• The happiness advantage

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Arc’teryx (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/arcteryxpodcast): Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/arcteryxpodcast)

• Intentional Climber (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalpodcast): Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalgp) or the App Store (intentionalclimber.com/intentionalapp) and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals atthestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp:/…

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Secret App Launch

02:23 Noah Wheeler Intro

06:33 Goals and Process

11:51 Evolving Through Struggle

18:18 Board Training Origins

21:15 Board Sessions and Volume

24:05 Intentional Climber Break

26:07 Rehab and Burden Prep

31:10 The Dab and Redemption

36:24 Dab Send Debate

37:25 Grading Burden Reality

42:10 V17 Or Downgrade

43:17 New Beta Breakdown

47:12 Micro Beta Anchors

50:20 Arc'teryx Harness Spot

52:06 Nutrition Calorie Wakeup

53:08 Carbs Protein Caffeine

57:11 Tactics Trip Mistakes

59:44 Footwork Pull Away

01:02:39 Grip Strength Weakness

01:05:23 Finger Strength Metrics

01:05:59 Projecting Mindset Phases

01:09:52 Pre Send Mental Crux

01:11:36 Embodiment Tools

01:15:50 Happiness Advantage

01:19:35 What’s Next Plans

01:20:53 Board Style Dreams

01:22:55 We Will Rock Vision

01:25:24 Wrap Up Bonus Plug

01:28:00 Host App Pitch

01:29:28 Climbing Reflections

01:31:59 Final Thanks Outro

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/podcastinstagram) and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/podcastyoutube)

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership withThe Honnold Foundation (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/honnoldfoundationp…), whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of thePlug Tone Audio Collective, (thestruggleclimbingshow.com/plugtonepodcast) a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!